Fez, Morocco, is a city brimming with history and culture. As one of the oldest imperial cities in the country, it holds a reputation for being the heart of Moroccan intellectual and spiritual life. The city’s charm lies in its rich heritage, ancient streets, and traditional craftsmanship that have been passed down through generations. Old Fez, also known as Fes el Bali, is a UNESCO World Heritage site that offers a journey through the past, with its winding alleys, vibrant souks, and magnificent monuments.
Exploring Old Fez feels like stepping back in time. The medieval medina of Fez is one of the largest car-free urban zones in the world. This means the hustle and bustle of daily life happens on foot, with donkeys and mules used to transport goods through the narrow, maze-like streets. The city is full of surprises for visitors, from hidden artisan workshops to centuries-old universities, making it a truly unique destination. But to experience its magic fully, it’s best to explore with a knowledgeable guide, as the maze of streets can easily confuse even the most seasoned travelers.
Whether you’re interested in history, culture, or just want to explore one of Morocco’s most fascinating destinations, Old Fez is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the past. This Old Fez guide will take you through the must-see places, tips for getting around, and where to eat, stay, and play in this captivating city. From its fascinating historical sites to its vibrant markets, Old Fez offers a truly unforgettable experience.
Navigating the Old Medina

Exploring Old Fez can be a daunting task, especially if you try to do it on your own. The labyrinth of narrow alleys and unmarked streets can leave you feeling disoriented. Even experienced travelers can find themselves lost in this ancient city. However, getting lost isn’t necessarily a bad thing—it’s part of the adventure. There are plenty of hidden gems and intriguing places to discover off the beaten path.
To help navigate the Old Medina, it’s advisable to hire a local guide who knows the ins and outs of the city. Many guides, like Jaouad Lahani, who was born and raised in Fez, will show you around and explain the history behind the monuments and landmarks you encounter. A guided tour allows you to fully understand the significance of each place, whether it’s a mosque, a madrasa (Islamic school), or a centuries-old building. A guide will also ensure that you don’t miss out on some of the best spots, including lesser-known corners of the city that tourists often overlook.
Alternatively, if you prefer exploring independently, make sure to start from one of the main gateways into the medina, such as the Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud). From here, you can easily explore the nearby areas, including Tala’a Kebira, one of the busiest streets where locals shop for daily necessities. As you explore, don’t forget to keep an eye out for small alleys and side streets that may lead to fascinating discoveries.
Discovering the Soul of Old Fez

Old Fez is a living museum, with each corner of the medina showcasing the soul of the city. From bustling markets to quiet courtyards, every area tells a story. The souks, or markets, are an essential part of this experience. Walking through these markets, you will encounter artisans at work, selling everything from leather goods to hand-woven rugs. The energy in the souks is palpable, with vendors calling out to passersby and bargaining over prices. It’s an exciting and lively place, perfect for immersing yourself in the everyday life of the city.
One of the most famous landmarks in Old Fez is the Chouara Tannery. This ancient tannery has been operating for centuries and is the oldest in the city. Visitors can watch as leather is dyed in vibrant colors using traditional methods that have remained unchanged for generations. The smell of the tannery may be overwhelming, but it’s an essential part of the experience. Leather goods such as bags, shoes, and jackets are sold in the nearby shops, making it a great place to pick up a souvenir that’s both beautiful and functional.
Don’t forget to explore the University of al-Qarawiyyin, considered the world’s oldest continuously operating university. Founded in 859, it remains a symbol of knowledge and learning. You can also visit the Bou Inania Madrasa, an architectural masterpiece that blends intricate Islamic design with rich history. Many of these historical sites offer insights into the spiritual and intellectual legacy of Fez, making them a must-visit for anyone interested in the cultural depth of the city.
Best Places to Eat in Old Fez

When it comes to food, Old Fez offers a variety of delicious options that will give you a true taste of Moroccan cuisine. Whether you’re craving traditional dishes or something with a modern twist, the city has something to satisfy every palate. In the Mellah, Fez’s old Jewish quarter, you’ll find family-run restaurants like Dar Hatim, which serves home-cooked meals such as chicken pastilla and lamb tagine. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, with the chef often greeting guests personally to explain the dishes.
For a more upscale experience, consider dining at Dar Roumana, a beautifully restored riad that offers a mix of traditional and contemporary Moroccan cuisine. The food is prepared with fresh, local ingredients, and the restaurant provides a peaceful setting with views of the medina. Another excellent option is Fez Café, located at Riad Le Jardin des Biehn. This café offers a daily-changing menu with dishes inspired by Moroccan flavors, all served in a tranquil garden setting.
If you’re looking for an unforgettable dining experience, Nur is a highly recommended restaurant known for its elevated Moroccan dishes and exceptional service. The ambiance is elegant and sophisticated, making it the perfect place for a special occasion. Whether you’re dining in a bustling souk or a peaceful courtyard, the food in Old Fez will surely leave a lasting impression.
Where to Stay in Old Fez

When visiting Old Fez, staying within the medina allows you to experience the vibrant life of the city firsthand. Many of the best accommodations in Fez are traditional riads—Moroccan guesthouses built around a central courtyard. One of the most luxurious options is Riad Fes, a Relais & Châteaux property that combines traditional Moroccan design with modern comforts. The riad offers stunning views of the Atlas Mountains and features beautiful suites with intricate tile work and damask fabrics.
Another excellent choice is Palais Faraj, which offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of the medina. The riad’s elegant décor and tranquil atmosphere make it a perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring. La Maison Bleue is another classic option, offering a more relaxed, family-style atmosphere with a restaurant serving delicious Moroccan cuisine. No matter where you choose to stay, a riad in the heart of Old Fez provides a unique and unforgettable experience.
If you’re looking for a quieter stay, consider booking a hotel just outside the medina. These accommodations offer a peaceful retreat while still being close to all the major attractions. Staying near the medina ensures that you can easily visit the city’s most important sites without the noise and chaos of the busiest areas.
Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Visit to Old Fez
Old Fez is a destination like no other, offering a rich blend of history, culture, and tradition. Whether you’re exploring the narrow streets of the medina, discovering hidden artisan workshops, or savoring traditional Moroccan dishes, there’s no shortage of things to do and see. However, to truly experience the magic of Old Fez, it’s important to take your time and immerse yourself in the city’s unique atmosphere.
Hiring a local guide can enhance your experience, as they will not only help you navigate the maze of streets but also provide you with insights into the city’s history and culture. If you prefer to explore on your own, remember that getting lost is part of the fun. Every corner of the medina holds a new discovery, and the surprises make the journey all the more exciting.
Whether you’re a history buff, a food lover, or someone who simply enjoys exploring new places, Old Fez has something for everyone. The city’s combination of ancient charm and modern-day vitality makes it one of the most captivating places in Morocco. By following this Old Fez guide, you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and create unforgettable memories in this fascinating city.